Oracabessa is a small town on the northern coast of Jamaica, about 20km east of Ocho Rios. This is where Ian Fleming spent his winters and wrote James Bond books. His house still exists, now part of the Golden Eye resort. There is a small marine sanctuary and a very basic diving operation. One can dive right in front of Ian Fleming’s old house. He reportedly snorkeled in the morning to catch a lobster for lunch before getting on with his writing. Reefs come right to the shore and have phenomenal swim throughs. Here is a brief video.
As elsewhere in the Caribbean, the reef is degraded and fish life is limited. But one can imagine what a spectacular site these reefs were back in the day. In 2023 reef experienced severe bleaching all around Jamaica and we have written more about this in Negril write up. It was heartbreaking to see staghorn coral nursery with little pieces of corals all pure white unlikely to make it.
Logistics
The diving is from the marine sanctuary little office located at James Bond beach. This James bond beach is not to be confused with the one featured in Dr.No famous scene when Honey Ryder comes from the sea. That beach, called Laughing Waters, is not too far away but seems to be on a private property and not obvious how to visit.
The beach is not very well developed for visiting. There is a building that used to be a restaurant or a bar also hosting events but it did not seem to be operational. The gate is locked and only because we had a dive arranged were we allowed in.
The road is a narrow gravel track off the main road. First time we were following the directions to James Bond beach down this road we were certain we were in the wrong place. But no, this was it.
The area all around is mostly resorts, including luxurious and pricey Golden Eye. There is also a growing number of condos/units being built in this very pretty bay. One can stay in one of the resorts in Oracabessa, or in Ocho Rios to dive in the area. It is also possible to dive it on a day trip from Kingston.
