Antigua – impressive old capital of Guatemala surrounded by volcanoes

Antigua was a capital of colonial Guatemala, which included all of Central America and Mexican Chiapas, from 1543 through 1773. A major administrative, business and religious center it had many palaces, grand houses, churches and convents. Antigua sits in a beautiful valley surrounded by 3 volcanoes, one of which – Fuego, has been continuously erupting for more than 20 years.

In 1773 a major earthquake destroyed Antigua and it was decided to move the capital to Guatemala City. Antigua was depopulated but not abandoned. The city was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 which helped with preserving its unique architecture and culture. Today, Antigua is a major tourist attraction for its architecture and culture mix, and as a great base to hike nearby volcanoes.

Buildings framing Parque Central with volcano views, Antigua, Guatemala
Buildings framing Parque Central with volcano views, Antigua, Guatemala

We spent several days in Antigua basing ourselves in one of many boutique hotels in old converted buildings in the city center. We walked around and visited the many museums and ruins. We checked out the many art galleries and craft markets, as well as the regular market. We ate delicious food.

Hiking Acatenango volcano, the third highest in Central America at 3,976m with spectacular close up views of erupting Fuego, was definitely something we considered. But it is a serious hike and an overnight one. We decided we were not exactly fit for it. Maybe one day. We met many travelers who did it and were happy they did, even if sore. We did go for a day hike of Volcano Pataya.

Barroco buildings around Parque Central, Antigua, Guatemala
Palacio de los Capitanes Generales at Parque Central, Antigua, Guatemala
Santa Catalina arch, Antigua, Guatemala
Santa Catalina arch, Antigua, Guatemala
5Th Avenue north with Santa Catalina arch and Agua volcano view, Antigua, Guatemala
La Merced Church, Antigua, Guatemala

We were visiting in December between Christmas and New Years and the city center was very busy with Christmas market, illuminations and cheerful crowds of locals and visitors. We felt completely safe walking around town at night.

One of the streets in the city center at night, Antigua, Guatemala
La Merced church illuminated at night, Antigua, Guatemala
La Merced church illuminated at night, Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua has an impressive collection of churches, cathedrals, convents and other religious buildings. It seems every monastic order came and set up a base in Antigua. Most of these buildings were severely damaged by the 1773 earthquake. Quite a few have been restored and are now museums or functioning religious entities.

Ruins of Antigua Cathedral, Antigua, Guatemala
Ruins of Antigua Cathedral, detail, Antigua, Guatemala
Santa Clara convent, Antigua, Guatemala
Santa Clara convent, Antigua, Guatemala
Santa Clara convent, Antigua, Guatemala
San Jeronimo ruins, Antigua, Guatemala
Las Capuchinas convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala
Las Capuchinas convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

Streets of Antigua are very colorful. Many women wear traditional clothes elaborately embroidered in bright colors. Buses and tricycles are highly decorated too. And there are shops selling all kind of handicrafts and paintings everywhere one looks.

A woman selling souvenirs wearing traditional clothes on a street in Antigua, Antigua, Guatemala
Decorated “chicken bus”, Antigua, Guatemala
Handicrafts market, Antigua, Guatemala

We visited the main fresh market in town located next to the handicrafts market. We were very impressed with the quality of vegetables and fresh produce in Guatemala. It must be that wonderful volcanic soil. It was just a little bit odd that in a market stalls are all intermixed. One would see vegetables sold right next to meat.

After a day of exploration it was good to watch the sunset in one of the many rooftop bars, taking in spectacular surroundings.

A rooftop bar in Antigua, Guatemala

Our hotel also had a little rooftop and it was really nice to sit and watch all three volcanoes, including slowly erupting Fuego while sipping morning coffee.

Volcanoes view from hotel rooftop, Antigua, Guatemala
Fuego volcano close up, Antigua, Guatemala.

It would have been good to hike Acatenango, but we just did not think we were fit for that. Instead we went for a short half day hike to Pataya volcano on a group hike with OX Expeditions. One is meant to see stunning views of the other volcanoes on this hike. The day we went though, by the time we reached the top view point, the cloud descended and we could not see anything. We were in the cloud. On the way down it got a bit better and we could see silhouette of one of the volcanoes. It was still fascinating to walk through lava fields. We also did have marshmallows cooked over hot lava. We may need another trip to properly explore Guatemala’s magnificent volcanoes.

Pacaya volcano hike through lava fields, Antigua, Guatemala.

After spending several days in Antigua we headed for our next stop – the beautiful Atitlan lake.

Back to Guatemala